We woke up to a stunning morning on the boat, with the sun casting a soft glow over the icy, choppy waters. Shortlived, though, as quickly snowstorms brewed up ahead—a hint at what we might experience in Hammerfest later on! Breakfast was a feast—a mix of cold buffet options and as many hot dishes as we wanted to order. The perfect fuel for another day of adventure! Before heading out, I squeezed in a quick WhatsApp video call with Mum and Dad to show them the breathtaking views from the deck.
Morning views from the boat. Windfarms, impromptu storms, and passing a ship from the Hurtigruten Line.
Discovering Hammerfest
Our first stop of the day was Hammerfest, a small town with a big history. Hammerfest calls itself the northernmost town in the world—its correctness really depends on your definition of town!
Disembarking and re-embarking the boat in Hammerfest, post snowstorm.
We hopped on a bus tour and took in fascinating insights from our guide:
Hammerfest is home to around 11,000 people.
Thanks to the Gulf Stream, it stays warmer here than you might expect (relatively speaking!).
It received city rights back in 1789 from the Norwegian-Danish king.
Locals enjoy a 3.5% lower tax rate and free daycare—I expect as compensation for such a harsh climate which for 8 months of the year looks like it does in our photos.
The town played a key role in measuring the curvature of the Earth at the famous Meridian Column. This line of markers stretches all the way from Ukraine, some 2,800km away.
The name "Hammerfest" comes from "hammer" (rock formation) and "fest" (to fasten to), as boats were historically tied to the rocks here.
Hammerfest has seen its fair share of disasters, including:
The Napoleonic Wars, which forced people into the mountains.
A devastating storm in 1850 that swept away two-thirds of the houses.
A bakery fire in 1890 that destroyed three-quarters of the city.
World War II, when Hitler ordered the town to be burned down, leaving only the church standing.
It was the first European city to have full electric street lighting.
Today, its main industry is oil and gas, with a major pipeline connection on Melkøya Island.
There are 138 nationalities living here, making it a surprisingly diverse community.
A unique heating system uses warmth from the sea to prevent icy pathways in winter.
And yes, reindeer sometimes end up on the roofs, eating their favourite treats (lichen), proving the reindeer fences aren't foolproof!
Photos from the Hammerfest lookout point. In the picture of the harbour, our boat is visible. Behind it, the big white structure is the hospital. There are only two hospitals in all of Finnmark—this one, and one in Kirkenes. This makes patient transport by air and boat very important. While we were at this lookout point we saw a helicopter take off from the hospital—quite an epic mission given the snowy weather and poor visibility.
After our tour, we returned to the boat and continued our journey south. Lunch was a mix of new and familiar dishes, all delicious, and apparently nap-worthy!
We then made our way to the gym for a quick workout. Running on a treadmill while the boat rocked beneath us was a challenge—balance was key! It felt like the treadmill was shifting position, making every step an adventure. But once again the views more than made up for the difficulty.
We docked in Skjervøy in the evening, and the water—quite sheltered—was eerily glassy!
Midnight in Tromsø
Dinner came around all too quickly. We were seated with our new friends from Perth, sharing stories over another fantastic meal.
With a midnight stop in Tromsø ahead, we decided a few hours sleep were in order before heading out. Just before midnight, we were off the boat and strolling through Tromsø. The city was magical, with a much warmer temperatures than expected. The Arctic Cathedral was breathtaking, and the streets were lined with charming shops and bars. If we had more time, we would have loved to stop for a drink at one of the cozy spots, but we prioritised exploring as much as we could before heading back to the boat. This one one of those places we've added to the 'Return To' list, just wonderful.
The cathedral in Tromsø was brightly lit, with a concert taking place at the time. The streets were bustling with people rolling out of bars obviously having had an excellent night! And the harbour is dwarfed by the ominous and ever-present mountains behind, a reminder that we are but tiny specks on this planet.
By 1:30 am, we were back in our cabin, tired but content. Another incredible day of adventure was behind us, and we couldn’t wait to see what tomorrow would bring!
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