Travelling day – from Portugal to Norway
The adventure began with another 3:45 AM start, catching a shuttle to Lisbon airport. Check-in was smooth and quick, leaving enough time to grab a much-needed coffee before boarding.
A short stopover in Spain greeted us with heavy rain—not exactly the kind of weather one lingers in, but thankfully, we were only there for an hour before continuing our journey.
The four-hour flight to Oslo on Iberia Airlines was an exercise in patience. The seats were tiny, making for a bit of a struggle for those with longer legs, but we arrived with all limbs intact and all our bags accounted for—unlike Drew and Cloe! We ran into them at the baggage carousel—they had just arrived from Heathrow—and learned that some bags that were meant to be on their flight had been left behind in London, and one of theirs was amongst them. Not the best start for them!
Our hotel was 5.2 km from the airport. We had hoped it would be within walking distance, but it turned out that not only was it too far to hoof it, but the shuttle wasn't free either. Opting for a taxi, we had a moment of near-disaster when the driver sped off without closing the side door. Nearly lost a person AND a bag before even reaching our destination!
An active afternoon
Upon arrival, I squeezed in a 6km run in the snow—absolutely beautiful and shorts and t-shirt weather. And I met my first Norwegian cat, who was happy to see me and keen for an ear scratch. The others opted for the gym instead. A 10-minute sauna session afterward was the perfect way to warm up. Dinner at the hotel included a mix of poke bowls, pizzas, and burgers.
Later, Cloe and I headed back to the airport to retrieve Cloe’s bag. It was an ordeal since the bag was stuck behind the international border, but with some firm persuasion, we managed to get access and retrieve it. Cloe certainly has bigger nuts that I do and lucky she does or the bag would still be missing, following us from stop to stop, no doubt!
Heading north to Kirkenes
The next morning started with breakfast at the hotel and another paid shuttle to the airport (we still suspect it should have been free!). Check-in was fully automated, allowing for a relaxed coffee at a small café before boarding.
The flight was uneventful, and we landed in Kirkenes (pronounced SHER-kin-es) amidst a snowstorm—quite the dramatic welcome! Jase, experiencing snow for the first time, was in awe. After retrieving our bags, we took a taxi into town and dropped them off at our hotel before heading out to explore.
Kirkenes is small, reminiscent of a ski village. Out of the sun and in the wind, the temperature felt much colder than the official -3ºC, with a "feels like" temperature of -12ºC. We found a little shopping centre and warmed up with smoked salmon bagels for lunch.
Arriving on a snowy runway; Drew displaying true Aussie grit by wearing a t-shirt in the minus temps; the freezing harbour; Jase under there somewhere, but trying to stay out of the wind; cafe lunch.
Exploring the Border Town with Greg
At 1 PM, our guide Greg picked us up and gave us an incredible insight into Kirkenes and its unique position in history and geography. Some of the highlights follow!
The town itself only came into existence in the early 1900s, but the first church was built in the 1860s. Much of the waterfront sits on reclaimed land, which used to be sandy beaches. The hills around Kirkenes (+60m above sea level) have an alpine climate similar to being at 2000m altitude, due to how far north the region is.
During WWII, the Andersgrotta bomb shelter was built to house up to 900 people, constructed by the Nazis using troops from Austria and other mountainous areas, as they were more accustomed to the harsh climate.
The Russian Border Experience
We also visited the old Russian border crossing, closed since the 1960s but still under heavy Norwegian military guard. Three young-looking soldiers came to check on us—compulsory military service in Norway means they were likely fresh recruits. The border was marked with a yellow-and-black Norwegian post and a red-and-green Russian one.
This gate behind us was opened for one day in 1991 when the Soviet Union fell so that people in Kirkenes could visit one more time, but since then closed again.
Photography rules were strict: we could take photos of Russia but not of any people on the Russian side, nor could we take pictures of the Norwegian military watchtower. Border rules are also strict—not even reindeer or bears are allowed to pass through the fences.
Interestingly, the border infrastructure was upgraded just six years ago in the hope of more collaboration between Norway and Russia. Before the Ukraine conflict, Russians from Murmansk and Norwegians from Kirkenes could cross freely without visas as long as they returned home the same day. Now, only Russians with valid reasons (such as visiting family) can cross. Some can visit Kirkenes for shopping but are not allowed to work due to sanctions. A Russian man even stopped Greg to ask for directions to the Russian consulate, which hasn’t operated for the last three years—an intriguing mystery!
We also visited the new border crossing, a much more serious affair. This is the easternmost point of the Schengen area, marking the divide between Europe and Russia.
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