A Taste of the Arctic
Our one and only night in Kirkenes, we followed a recommendation from our Russian Border Tour guide and headed to Surf & Turf for dinner. Jase was feeling adventurous and ordered reindeer, so I tried a little too—just to compare it to kangaroo. It was definitely gamey but given red meat isn't my thing, I left him to it.
I had planned on an early morning run the next day before we kicked off our Havila Voyages adventure, but when I checked the weather, it was an easy decision to skip it—an actual temperature of -8°C with a “feels like” of -16°C. Hard pass!
Embarking on Our Cruise (Sort Of!)
The next morning, we took a cab to the dock and watched our ship arrive. But instead of boarding immediately, we were whisked off on a pre-cruise excursion: dog sledding!
Meeting Reindeer and Huskies
Our first stop was near the Snow Hotel, where we got to feed and pet reindeer. Their fur is incredibly soft and warm due to tiny air pockets that help insulate them. Then, we met some of the sled dogs—a mix of Siberian huskies, Alaskan huskies, and other working breeds, bred specifically for endurance and speed. These dogs love to run!
Meeting and feeding the reindeer, as well as hanging out with the sled dogs. They are gorgeous and friendly but the stinkiest dogs you'll ever meet! They're taught to answer nature's call while running so it can get quite messy.
The sledding itself was an exhilarating 5km ride through the snow-covered landscape, even taking us across a frozen fjord that was supposedly 120m deep. We didn’t see it, but the Finnmarksløpet—Europe’s second-longest sled dog race—had passed through the same trails just the day before.
Us and the team of dogs. In order (from the front), there is Lead, Swing, Team and Wheel dogs. The same dogs make up the team each time because they get used to working together.
The Snow Hotel Experience
After the ride, we warmed up in a cozy hut with hot juice while waiting for our turn to tour the Snow Hotel. The hotel itself was breathtaking—intricate ice sculptures, themed rooms, and an otherworldly glow from the ice walls. It's possible to stay there, hopefully with some warmer blankets than the ones we spotted!
Inside and outside the Snow Hotel
Finally on Board!
Back in Kirkenes, we boarded our ship and were thrilled to find that we’d secured an upgrade from an internal cabin to one with a big window—perfect for watching the Arctic scenery go by.
A fun discovery: in many parts of Europe, including on the ship, double beds come with two separate doonas instead of one. We’re seriously considering adopting this idea at home!
Life on the Ship
We were assigned an 11:30 AM lunch and 6 PM dinner slot. Lunch was a selection of small dishes, with the option to order as many as you wanted—three to four recommended, but more if you were extra hungry.
There were countless epic views, and I have no doubt posts to come will contain countless photos of snow covered hills. The photos unfortunately do not do the views justice.
The onboard gym was an experience—working out while the ship rocked from side to side was a challenge, especially trying to run in a straight line on the treadmill!
The gym with an ocean view
Dinner was a three-course meal with exquisite food. Just the two of us dined that evening since the others weren’t hungry. Unfortunately, we got some bad news over dinner—our snowmobiling excursion had been cancelled due to poor weather. A shame, but at least it meant we didn’t have to wake up at 1 AM and battle the elements.
A Rocky Night at Sea
After dinner, we went up to the bar on Deck 9 and met some fellow Aussies, but the seasickness was creeping in for me. Holding it together was exhausting, so by 8 PM, I was ready for bed.
It was a rough night. The ship rocked heavily in the open sea, and since our cabin was just above the thrusters, we felt every vibration when the ship docked—twice! At one point, I genuinely thought I might roll out of bed.
Northern Lights Alert!
At 1 AM, the captain made an announcement—Northern Lights! We jumped out of bed, threw on layers as fast as possible, and rushed to the deck.
They were faint, not visible to the naked eye, but the phone camera’s long exposure picked them up—just. It was a brief break in the cloud cover, but at least we got to see them!
The rest of the night was a mix of calmer waters near the ports and intense rocking as we ventured back into open sea. Not much sleep that night, but it's all part of the game!
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